Clutch lever will not move


I was riding home from work as normal, last few miles to the house, got stuck in traffic, normal score engine getting hot, was only at 84c.

I selected first, clutch in, moved off from lights, clutch out, slowed for a turn, and a slight dragging sound, like a blocked exhaust, then it sounds ok (was in first gear btw) then went for second, and I could not get the clutch lever to move, not an inch. Pushed it into neutral, and sailed to a halt. :blush:

I can move up and down the gears ok, engine runs fine, no warning lights, just cannot get that clutch lever to move, not even a mm…any ideas?

I have bled the clutch, first at the slave then the master cylinder, it all goes loose, pumped it clean, (the clutch fluid was very dark), several times. When I do up the master cylinder, it goes rock hard again. Seem to be making a sucking sound at the slave when I pump it, or it just could be my hearing.

When the motor is running, and I try the clutch, I can hear a low whining noise. Cannot locate the source. Those pipes are loud.

I also stripped the slave off and cleaned and greased it the seal and the clutch rod (lightly). Whilst there stripped the cover off the front sprocket and de gunked that as well.

Hi, it would be worth removing the clutch pressure plate and trying lever then . If all is well it could be the clutch hub sticking . I think it sounds more like the pushrod will be sticking in the gearbox shaft . Just pull it out , clean and lightly lube . Build it all up again and go and enjoy!!!
Good luck

I’ve just rebuilt the clutch on my ST4S ABS (04) and it sounds like you may have reached the point mine was about to get to as the clutch pushrod was almost seized in the input shaft.
Due to previous neglect the needle roller supporting the pushrod had broken up and gouged a groove into the rod (gruesome pic on DOCGB Facebook).
In short, it took a hammer to drive the rod through and out (earlier model without the later addition of the crosspiece).
Pressure plate came off easily but bearing seized on endcap and endcap solid on pushrod.
Check the needle roller carefully and add a drop of oil if it’s still ok. New oilseals are under a tenner from Ducati Mondo and it’s not worth reusing the old one.
Of course all the extra strain on the system seems to have affected the master cylinder so that may need a service too.
Apart from the neele roller servicing the clutch is a doddle and slipping in a new basket and plates helped too.
Good luck.

Good news if you need to rebuild the master cylinder. You can do it but tracking down the parts is awkward as Ducati don’t list a kit. However, the internals seem to be identical to the rear brake master and readily available on ebay. The same cylinder is used on loads of Guzzis, Aprilias etc so have a good look around for the 13 mm cylinder.

Finally after admitting defeat and the fact I wasn’t going to strip a clutch, I know my limits.

The problem was that the clutch had actually fallen off :open_mouth: and was held in place by the clutch cover, which is now smooth on the inside. The large bolt and washer which holds the clutch rod, and come away from its position, and had pushed the clutch out of alignment.

Anyone else had a similar problem. The mechanic who fixed it was totally surprised by this and had never ever seen anything like that before.

Shes ready for the winter roads again.

Embarrassing update to my earlier post. The St4S Clutch M/C is a 12 mm, not 13 but all other comments apply. Mind you 12mm masters with hollow piston are about as common as hen’s tooth-encrusted rocking unicorn droppings. Luckily Ducatimondo just happened to have a Gold cylinder they needed rid of, saved me a few bob against genuine Ducati prices for a complete cylinder.
As regards the clutch working loose I notice that according to the manual its torque is supposed to be checked every 12,000 miles so if you weren’t self-servicing have a word with your garage. Torque setting is pretty monstrous at 135 lb/ft but I suppose it does have a lot to put up with.