Some odd belt tips...

Some more tips from

The Dry Clutch.

On a regular basis check the clutch plates as per the manual, its REALLY easy. make sure the plates thickness is within spec, and the gaps in the basket are OK. What the manual may not tell you is, remove the clutch plates (which you will need to do to measure them) blow or brush the housing clear of dust and when replacing the plates turn them round and make sure they fit into a different gap in the basket. This will double the clutch life!


If the bike is left inactive for long periods the cam belt bearings can seize. The ultimate effect is a broken belt due to friction between the belt and the seized bearing. At low engine speed the impact was nil. At high engine speed the impact is not worth thinking about. Squirt of WD40 on the bearings upon re-starting the bike seems to prevent seizure. Big engine killer is incorrectly tensioned belts. Steel pulleys are recommended as replacements for the earlier alloy/plastic pulleys

Warming up the bike

NEVER blip the throttle, it may sound nice but it will stretch the cold belts and risk snapping them. Warm the bike up by holding the engine at a steady RPM.- Tip relayed to me via a friend from Carl Foghertys mechanic!

Alternator rotor failure

Not in the manual is the potentially disastrous possibility of the Alternator rotor coming loose. Its relatively rare, but common enough to make checking yours on a regular basis essential. If it comes loose it generally destroys the crank and has been known to cause engine seizure.

On a regular basis (say every other oil change) remove the alternator engine cover and make sure the large nut that holds on the alternator rotor is tight, DO NOT TRY AND TORQUE IT EVERY TIME, this will stretch the threads, simply make sure it has not come loose. If it is loose remove it, check the tapered keyway for damage (its a new crank if it is!) and re fit it using a suitable lock tite (as specified in the manual although I use Locktite 601) and torque it up.

Due to the way the manuals are translated the torque settings in the Monster manual and the torque settingins in the SS manual are different (same engine!). I use 180NM as specified in the SS Manual not the 150 as in the Monster one!

Sprag clutch (from both the UK Monster & DOC E mail lists.)


Learned a potentially useful thing today
from a colleague at work who has an ST2.
The sprague clutch which engages the starter
motor drive to the engine was slipping, thus
preventing the engine from starting.
A new one was purchased at a cost of ~ £85.
He compared the two, thought “Hmm, the old
one doesn’t look worn”, got out the micrometer
and measured the wear in the drive dogs at
about half a thou (bugger all really).
He then noticed that the retaining spring to hold
the dogs was slacker on the old one compared
to the new. The spring is like a metal rubber
band with a join (same as on a lip oil seal) so he
separated it, shortened it a little and then rejoined
the ends - hey presto, good as new and working
The same probably applies to all modern Ducati
rubber band engines - Monsters, SS’s, and the
various superbikes.
So, if the starter turns but the engine doesn’t, then
this would be worth a try before parting with dosh.

Discovered the hard way by Robin.

Forwarded for free by

Ian C.